THE OLD TOWN OF CARRICALINE LOCATED AT THE ROCK.
The Name of the Old Town
This place was in early times called Beavor, or Bebhor, and derived its name from the abrupt rocky cliff on which are the remains of the ancient castle, built by Milo de Cogan in the reign of King John, and for nearly two centuries occupied by the Earls of Desmond, by whom it was forfeited, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The castle, together with the lands of Carrigaline and Balinrea, was then granted by the queen to Anthony St. Leger, who demised them to Stephen Golding, Esq., from whom they were purchased by Sir Richard Boyle, afterwards Earl of Cork, and from him descended to the present proprietor, the Earl of Shannon. In 1568, the Lord-Deputy Sidney, after relieving the Lady St. Leger in Cork, advanced against this fortress, which he took from James Fitzmaurice after an obstinate resistance, and from this time during the entire reign of Elizabeth it had the reputation of being impregnable.
In 1589, Sir Francis Drake, with a squadron of five ships, being chased by a Spanish fleet of superior force, ran into Cork harbour; and sailing up Crosshaven, moored his squadron in a safe basin, sheltered by Corribiny Hill, close under Coolmore. The Spaniards pursued, but, being unacquainted with the harbour, sailed round the shores without discovering the English fleet, and giving up the search, left it here in perfect security. The basin in which Sir Francis lay has since been called Drake's pool.
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ST. MARY'S CHURCH.
There was originally a church on the site of the present Church of Ireland mentioned in the taxation of Pope Nicholas in 1291. It was then known as Ecclesia de Beannier.
A Bishop Dive Downs toured the Cork diocese and visited Carrigaline on September 27th 1700. His report stated:
'I saw Carickoline Church; it is above 70 foot long, built with stone and clay, but the walls are pretty good; well slated and well furnished with seats. In the church hangs the King's Arms and Table of Marriage. A good vestry built on the north side of the church, at the charge of the Dean of Corke. In the vestry is a chest, where they have a Vestry Book and Register for Christenings, and Book of Cannons, Acts against swearing, and Common Prayer Books, and Bible. There is linen for the Communion-table, a Pewter Flagon, Chalice, Paten, and Basin of Silver, and a Pewter Font. The school is kept in the Church, by Richard Codner, the clerk of the parish. A large Church Yard, at least an English acre, well fencd, and set round with sycamores. There are five small parcels of glebe belonging to the Incumbent of this Parish. Not far from the church is the old Castle of Carickoline, tis almost ruinous; it formerly belonged to the family of the Coghans, now it is the estate of Ld Shannon".
A new church building was erected in the 18th century. The first service was held there on the 17th December 1723. The original Commemoration Stone of the present St. Mary's Church states:
This Church Was
Rebuilt In the Year
Of Our Saviour
Christ 1723 The
Revd Mr Boyle Davies
Rect.
Mr Phillip Cillman
Mr Richard Dorman
ChurchWardens
There are three graveyards surrounding St. Marys Church. The first and most historic dates back to the time of the castle and contains graves of both creeds. The second graveyard was opened in 1944 and the third extension was opened in the 1970s. Situated in the most historic area of Carrigaline. Dating back to 1824 it was extensively renovated and rededicated last year (2003).
The first graveyard dates back to the time of the castle and so family members kept their burial plots once the church was built regardless of religion. This tradition remained when the second and third phases were introduced with both churches using the sacred ground side by side.
The present Church
of St. Marys
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Carrigaline Castle in ruins (See deCogan section)
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The Move from The Rock
After the fall of Carrigaline Castle the area around the rock lost its importance although a vibrant society continued to live in the area, and a church also remained there, the Church of Ireland church built in 1723 replacing an earlier church. The religious wars of the seventeenth century followed by the Cromwellian campaign had its toll on all churches.
It is generally accepted that the site of Carrigaline Village was moved up the river in the early/middle seventeenth century and a bridge was built at the highest navigable point where a network of roads opened to the south. The land around Carrigaline was rich, with the subsequent need for industry such as milling , agricultural implement, shopkeepers etc. The houses in the village were constructed mostly south of the river. Another settlement known as the Cross. developed north of the river near the present Catholic church. Roads ran from here to Cork, Ringaskiddy and Ballinassig and a connecting roadway between the two parts of the village. The Milling Industry developed between the two, the old structure at Roberts still remaining , the old mill stream near Cogans still there,and the weir and sleuce gates at Ballea bridge.
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Constance Westrop Sketching in Carrigaline circa 1890
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In the 1800's the village by the rock had a population of about 200 souls. The village was mostly comprised of mud walled thatched cottages. Little now remains of their stone walls.
A SNAPSHOT OF THE VILLAGE OF CARRIGALINE AT THE ROCK circa 1841
Numbering houses & residents. Based on the Griffith Valuation Survey
1 . St. Mary's Church. C.O.I.
2. Josiah Godfrey.
3. William Beasley. George Tate.
4. B.Hackett, James Kenefick.
5. Catherine Linehan.
6. The old boat slip.
7. The road to the the slip.
8. The Cow's Well, covered in 1980..
9. Patrick Nagle. John Cooper.
10. Jeremiah Callaghan, Daniel Callaghan, O'Connell.
11. Margaret Nagle.
12. Dave Leahy.
13. Robert Atkins, vacant.
14. Castle, De Cogan, and
15. addition by Earl of Desmond.
16. Robert Atkins.
17. Robert Atkins, vacant.
18. Denis Meskill, James Cogan, presently James O'Farrell.
19. James Cogan, vacant.
20. Samuel Meskill.
21. Pat Cronin.
22. John Kenefick, Daniel Geary.
23. Edward Barrett, Margaret Geary.
24. William Kenefick, Patrick Kenefick, Jonas Smith.
25. Charles Mc.Carthy.
26. John Begley, John Cooper.
27. Catherine Linehan, Michael O'Driscoll.
28. William Cogan, Junior.
29. Margaret Murphy.
30. Patrick Sullivan.
31. Elizabeth Godfrey.
32. Mary Drinan, Thomas Noonan.
33. William Cogan, Michael Murphy.
34. The Pound.
35. Michael Geary. Edward Geary
36. Patrick Barry. Mick Tobin.
37. William Cogan.
38. Edward Cogan, Williarn Cogan
39. Margaret Ford, William Ford
40.Mary Begley.
41.Denis Horrigan.
42.Patrick Linehan.
43.Denis Linehan.
44.Public House, possibly Andrew Kelleher.
45.Shop, possibly Henry Pane
46.David Drennen.
* 47.Charles CaInan.
* 48. John Calnan.
MICHAEL JOSEPH BARRY.
In 1868, Young Irelander Michael Joseph Barry, left Ireland for exile in France. Later in life, he returned home to Cork and wrote his last poem, which simply outlined his journey through life, the highs, the lows and finally his return to his native land on the banks of the Owenabue.
DEAR CARRICALINE.
Dear Carrigaline, with what rapture I've trod, In the bright days of childhood, thy emerald sod, Or, wearied by play, have reposed to the shade, With the hawthorn and beach by thy clear waters made, With joy on my soul seemed as calmly to shine, As the sun on thy waters, sweet Carrigaline.
And later in boyhood, when passions young thrill, Made soft looks of loveliness, lovelier still, How oft by the margin of shady Coolmore, I've whispered fond vows of idolatry o'er, While the hand of the loved one clasped warmly in mine, Made thy shores seem an Eden, dear Carrigaline.
Now years have passed over and loved ones are lost, And o'er life's waters the tempest hath crossed, And 1 visit thy shores after dark days of ill, And I find them all peaceful and beautiful still, Ah' that life's waves could flow tranquil as thine, When the storm has passed o'er it, loved Carrigaline.
But the wave looks dreariest after the storm, When the wreck of a young hope its dark bosom deforms, And the heart like a live barque, floats mournfully on, While the comrades it sailed with are scattered and gone, Yet even in my sorrow, 'tis sweet to recline, Once more on thy green sward, loved Carrigaline.
Still calm by thy waters and bright o'er thy shore,
And young hearts be blessed there as mine was of yore,
For surely if nature has painted a scene,
Where the dream of existence may still be serene,
And joy in my soul may unfadingly shine,
That scene is thy margin, dear Carrigaline.
Michael Joseph Barry, died February 1889
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